I’m sure there isn’t a single person who has ever bought a pair of jeans that fit perfectly in length right off the rack.
Most people probably have to get them hemmed to adjust them to the right length.
But let’s be honest: don't you find hemming jeans to be a hassle?
It takes time, and some shops charge extra for the service.
It’s a bit of a waste, isn't it?
What if you just wore them without hemming?
As someone who used to work at a clothing alteration shop, I’m going to explain:
・When you don’t need to hem them, and when you shouldn’t skip it
・The best length for hemming
・Do jeans shrink if you hem them before washing?
・Things to keep in mind when taking them to a shop
・Average costs for hemming
・How to hem stylish jeans with intricate designs without losing their appeal
...and more!!
See the Bobson Sports Jeans that don't need hemming ▶▶▶
No hemming required! Bobson Workers pants, perfect for rolling up ▶▶▶
Is it okay to skip hemming your jeans?
Do you have to hem your jeans, or should you?
This depends on the original length of the jeans and your personal preference.
When you don't need to hem
You don't need to hem your jeans if:
① They are Japanese-made denim that isn't too long to begin with.
② You choose not to because you want to roll up the cuffs.
① Japanese-made denim that isn't too long
Some Japanese denim is tailored to a perfect length specifically for the Japanese physique.
In those cases, you can wear them at the perfect size without needing any alterations!
② Choosing not to hem so you can roll up the cuffs
If you always plan on wearing them rolled up, there’s no need to hem them.
Some jeans are even designed with the intent of being worn cuffed.
When you should hem
There are times when you absolutely must hem them:
① You don't want to roll up the cuffs.
② They are overseas denim with a long inseam.
③ They don't reach the right length unless you fold them twice or more.
I recommend hemming in these cases.
① You don't want to roll up the cuffs
If you don't like rolling up your cuffs, hemming is obviously necessary.
While the standard is to have the hem sit slightly over the heel of your shoe, you should hem them to a length that matches your personal preference.
② Overseas denim with a long inseam
Unlike Japanese brands, overseas denim can sometimes be so long that it’s discouraging when you try them on.
Since body types naturally differ between Japan and other countries, it's best to have them hemmed to a length that suits your frame so you can wear them beautifully.
③ They don't reach the right length unless you fold them twice or more
Even if rolling them up is an option, there’s a limit.
Folding them more than twice makes the cuffs look bulky and sloppy.
If you can't wear them without folding them twice or more, at least have them hemmed so a single fold is sufficient.
I’ve covered both scenarios, but you might still be wondering: what should I do if the length feels awkward?
From my perspective as a former tailor, I always recommend getting them hemmed.
It broadens the range of your outfits.
You can get a clean silhouette that fits perfectly as is, or you can fold them up to ankle length to match a certain top or show off your socks.
You can enjoy wearing the same pair of jeans in many different ways!
No hemming required! View Bobson Workers that are perfect for rolling up ▶▶▶
What is the best length for hemming?
So, when you decide to hem your jeans, what length should you aim for?
It depends on the shoes you wear and the width of the hem.
Heels
If you are a woman wearing them with heels, the best length is right around the base of the heel, covering part of the heel.
While having wide pants skim the ground to completely hide your heels can make you look taller, unfortunately, they get dirty easily. (It's a nightmare on rainy days.)
Skinny Pants
For form-fitting skinny pants, I recommend a shorter length with "no cushion" or a "half cushion."
A "cushion" refers to the wrinkles that form on the pants where they meet the shoe.
"No cushion" means no wrinkles at all.
"Half cushion" means a slight amount of wrinkling.
Having the jeans sit right on your instep without bunching looks neat and stylish.
Straight and Wide-Leg Denim
For straight or wide-leg jeans with a wider hem, go for a "one cushion" or "two cushion" length.
A "one cushion" is best for a sharp look, while a "two cushion" is recommended if you prefer a relaxed, casual style.
Should you take your jeans to a shop or fix them yourself?
Once you decide they are too long and need hemming, you have two choices: take them to a professional or do it yourself.
How to hem them yourself
Maybe you don't want to pay for hemming, or you don't have the time to visit a shop.
I honestly don't recommend it, but it’s not impossible.
If you have a sewing machine, you can simply fold the hem over three times and sew it!
However, denim becomes quite thick when folded three times.
Try flattening the hem by tapping it with a hammer (this is a method we tailors use) to reduce the thickness before sewing.
Also, check that your needle and machine can handle the thickness of denim before you start.
If you force it, you might break your needle or even damage your machine.
There are hemming tapes and glues sold, but they aren't suitable for jeans.
They often fall off or leave a sticky residue...
Quite a few people bring their jeans to me after such a disaster, but the finished results are often messy, so skip the tape and just take them to a pro.
Hand-sewing is possible, but sewing stitch by stitch through thick denim—and doing it tightly so it doesn't loosen—is extremely hard work.
Considering the effort, I recommend having a professional sew them with a machine.
Steps for taking them to a tailor
If you aren't familiar with clothing alterations, you might not know where to find a shop nearby.
Try searching for terms like "clothing alterations" or "clothing repair" to find local shops.
If there aren't any shops nearby, you can also send them in by mail.
You can measure the length yourself, mail them, pay the fee, and have them sent back.
Once you find a shop, bring the jeans in and have them pinned to the right length.
Some people try to decide "x cm shorter" themselves, but pinning them yourself often requires leaning forward, which usually makes them shorter than you imagined...
It’s much safer to have someone else pin them while you stand straight.
Some people have slight asymmetries in their skeleton or leg length, so if you only pin one side, they might end up uneven when you actually wear them.
For the best results, have both legs measured.
Also, if you are bringing in "raw" (non-washed) denim, I recommend washing them once before having them hemmed.
They will shrink after washing, so they’ll end up shorter than your desired length if you hem them first.
It depends on how busy the shop is, but it can be done within an hour if they aren't busy, or take several days depending on their workload and the sewing method, so give yourself plenty of time.
Differences in sewing methods: Chain stitch, standard lock stitch, etc.
Once you have your measurements, the next step is choosing the sewing method.
The look and durability vary by method, so choose one that suits you.
Here are the most common methods available at alteration shops.
Lock Stitch (Single Stitch)
This is the most standard, convenient method: cut the hem, fold it over three times, and sew it straight.
It's durable and won't come undone easily, even if a stitch or two breaks.
However, for true denim enthusiasts, it’s often considered boring (at least from this tailor's perspective).
Chain Stitch
This looks like a single stitch from the outside, but it’s chain-linked on the inside.
Chain stitching creates a unique "wavy" wear pattern on the hem.
A standard lock stitch can make a hem look stiff and obviously altered, whereas the chain stitch creates a more natural, vintage look.
While beloved by denim enthusiasts, it’s not as durable—if one thread breaks, the whole thing can unravel very quickly.
Overlock Stitch
This involves treating the raw edge of the cut fabric with an overlock machine and then sewing a single stitch over it.
From the outside, it looks the same as a lock stitch.
This method is used when there isn't enough length for a triple-fold hem.
Rarely, it’s chosen by those who want to keep the hem as light as possible.
Double Stitch
After sewing with a single stitch, a second round is sewn about 5mm away.
This leaves two visible stitch lines on the inside and outside.
Customers often request this if the original design of the jeans featured a double stitch.
As a tailor, it makes me nervous, because any inconsistency in the spacing is immediately obvious.
Hem Restoration / Re-attaching the original hem
Sometimes the original hem has damage, fading, or specific processing that you don’t want to lose.
In that case, you can choose to preserve the original hem.
Shops might call this different things, but it’s essentially re-attaching the original damaged hem to the newly shortened leg.
I’ll refer to this simply as "a method to keep the original damage."
What is the average cost for hemming jeans?
Once the method is decided, it's time to pay.
While prices fluctuate depending on the method, shop, and region, the approximate costs are as follows:
|
Sewing Method |
Price |
|
Lock Stitch (Single) |
800–1,200 yen |
|
Chain Stitch |
Around 2,000 yen |
|
Overlock Stitch |
Around 1,500 yen |
|
Double Stitch |
Around 1,200 yen |
|
Hem Restoration |
Around 3,000 yen |
If the jeans have intricate designs, additional fees will be added.
For example:
- Moving a zipper on the hem
- Replacing ribs (though that’s rare for jeans)
These can cost around 4,000 yen.
(This also varies by shop.)
Also, though it’s rare, if you need to shorten them significantly (by, say, 20cm), the width will also need to be adjusted, which will end up costing quite a bit.
"Ugh, if it costs that much, I'll pass!"
"It's a waste of money to pay for hemming."
To those of you who think that!
Even a pair of fast-fashion jeans can look better than their original price if they fit your body perfectly.
Conversely, even if you go to the trouble of buying expensive jeans, if you don't hem them and they don't fit your body, they can end up looking cheaper than their price tag...
Just by spending a little money on hemming, you can have jeans that are perfectly suited to you.
510 Revival KD8 Denim Straight Jeans Straight Denim One Wash 14oz Denim
Make them your perfect pair with hemming
A tiny difference in length is all it takes to make jeans look either stylish or sloppy.
Even if you haven't been too picky about it before, for your next pair, please have them hemmed at the store and tailored into your own special jeans.
No hemming required! Bobson products designed for rolling up
Among Bobson's products, we would like to introduce some items with designs that look great even if you roll them up or if the hem is a bit short.
BOBSON Workers
With their silhouette that drops straight from the waist to the hem, BOBSON Workers allow you to create a focal point at the hem by rolling them up, adding an accent to your outfit.
The loose, cute silhouette is a gender-free design that can be worn by both men and women.
Based on the concept of stylish workwear, these are great for both work and casual settings.
The elastic waist makes them easy to put on and take off, perfect for a work style.
There is a wide variety of colors and materials, making it fun to choose your own favorite!
Denim and hickory are tough materials where you don't have to worry about dirt, while colors like olive and turquoise use synthetic fibers with a subtle sheen that are incredibly quick-drying.
I own a brown pair myself, and they are excellent—if I wash them at night, they are dry and ready to wear by the next morning. They also come with a stain-resistant finish, so dirt doesn't stick easily!
This product has nothing but good points.
We recommend styling them with oversized clothing!
Hybrid Chinos
The Hybrid Chinos, a pair of chinos proposed by the jeans manufacturer Bobson, were designed with a cropped length in mind:
If they are too long, you can wear them as they are.
If they are short, you can wear them as cropped pants.
The design is also perfectly suited for rolling up, making them quite versatile!
Bobson's Hybrid Chinos are a bit different from ordinary chino pants. While "chino pants" can cover everything from dowdy work-spec versions to slightly more formal ones, these were designed to be perfectly balanced so they can be worn in any situation, intentionally aiming for a look that's just a little more casual than a clean-cut style.
These chinos are made of a hybrid material that doesn't stretch easily, and the silhouette is a clean straight cut... but we added a touch of toughness by sewing them with thick-gauge thread.
By using a single-welt pocket instead of the double-welt pocket often found on suits, we’ve created a casual look. We have finished them into versatile chino pants that aren't too dressy.
Keeping that image of robust chino pants that aren't too clean-cut, why not add these Hybrid Chinos to your wardrobe for both work and off-duty life?♪
The BOBSON Online Store offers free hemming.
Recently, showing your ankles has become a trend, so some of our items are designed with lengths that expose a little bit of the ankle.
We have a selection of pants that look cute rolled up or worn as-is, so please try out different lengths and enjoy your style!
